Guides
Paredón, Coahuila, and what surrounds it
A point in the Coahuila semi-desert between Saltillo and Monclova. What there is to do in the area, and why the region offers more than it appears.
· 3 min read
Paredón does not appear on lists of tourist destinations, and much of its appeal comes from exactly that. It is a locality in the municipality of Ramos Arizpe, on the highway linking Saltillo with Monclova, in the heart of the Coahuila semi-desert.
Those who drive past see scrub and horizon. Those who stop find something else.
Where it is
The area sits along the Saltillo–Monclova axis, a comfortable distance from Saltillo and reachable from the Monterrey metropolitan area on a highway drive reasonable enough for a same-day round trip.
That combination is uncommon: genuinely rural territory, with the quiet that implies, within driving distance of two major northern cities.
The landscape
The Coahuila semi-desert has a scale that surprises anyone arriving from the city. Wide plains, mountain ranges in the distance that change color by the hour, and a very particular quality of light owing to the elevation and the dryness of the air.
It is a landscape that rewards time. At midday it looks flat and hard; at dusk, when the sun drops and shadows stretch across the scrub, it is another place entirely.
What to do in the area
Night sky. Probably the greatest attraction and the least advertised. Distance from cities and dry air make the Milky Way clearly visible. It is worth staying until dark.
Walking the desert. At dawn or dusk. The Coahuila desert's vegetation is surprisingly diverse, with cacti, yuccas, lechuguilla and mesquite, and many species are endemic to the region.
Cycling. The rural roads of the semi-desert, with little traffic and open terrain, are good for mountain or gravel riding.
The wine route. Parras de la Fuente, a Pueblo Mágico and home to the oldest winery on the continent, is within day-trip distance. It is the natural complement to a weekend in the area.
Saltillo. The state capital offers a historic center, cathedral, museums and a food scene that has grown considerably. A good plan for the day you do not want desert.
When to come
Autumn, October through November, is the best season: mild days, cool nights and very clear skies.
Spring, March and April, brings desert bloom if there were rains, a brief and unpredictable spectacle.
Winter is cold, especially at night, but the sunny days are pleasant and there are very few people.
Summer requires organizing around the clock: activity early and at dusk, shade at midday. In exchange, it is harvest season in the region.
What to bring
More water than you think you need, a hat and sunscreen, layered clothing for the nighttime temperature drop, closed shoes for walking among spiny vegetation, and a full tank, because gas stations are spaced out.
Why we chose this area
Ex-Hacienda Amargos is here because the hacienda was here first, since 1750. Those who chose this site in the eighteenth century did so for practical reasons: there was water and the place was livable.
Nearly three centuries later those reasons still hold, and now there is one more that did not count back then: being far from the noise, close to the city.